camaro clutch change!

[ikeyballz]

Im going to change the clutch on my 97 camaro SS... anyone have instructions/tips :D i havent done a clutch before, but i have a crappy manual to guide me..the rest shall be trying to figure it out myself.. lol =P

tips?

instructions i need?

materials?

[Rob]

Hydraulic clutch... be careful... dont break the hydraulic assembly.

Youre gonna need:

4 TALL jackstands or 2 drive-on ramps and 2 stands... and a LEVEL working area.

Start with removing the shifter from the top

Then... remove driveshaft, (drain pan under tailshaft hole) Unhook speedo output and reverse light switch.

Remove the hydraulic assembly for the clutch.

remove or loosen the crossmember and torque arm

loosen the bellhousing bolts... (long extenstion of 36-48" may be needed)

[Ronin]

I recommend you have at least one guy with you that at least has an idea as to how its done. Someone who's done a clutch job before.

I don't know if its the same with camaros, but the bellhousing bolts on my trans are different lengths. Remember where each one goes.

I'm sure the camaro trans are heavy as hell. Mine was, and we did my clutch job the hard way(garage & jack stands). My friend went under the trans while I removed the bolts. When it came loose, that thing fell on his chest. fuka was heavy, but my friend was pretty strong! Then he had to squirrel his way out from underneath the car with the trans on his chest. We were going to have him lie on the dollies so he could slide on it, but we didn't have enough clearance...

Have fun. I've only done a clutch job once and its good experience, then I paid for my second one.

You said you have a manual so make sure you read and understand each steps mentioned in there.

[Rob]

The T-56 is relatively light...

a transmission jack may make it easier so you dont have to drop it on the ground.

Are you installing a new flywheel too?

[ikeyballz]

no, like everyone knows i just recently had my trans worked on..but it was less than satisfactory.. so i ended up buying a clutch kit from a friend for about 250..good for 500hp or so..

im assuming the flywheel WAS resurfaced, and that it should be decent since i havent been using it for too long..i wanted a lightened flywheel, but thats gonna cost a helluva lot more.. should i buy/resurface the flywheel?

im going to have 4 jackstands, plus one for the rear end assy.. and i have a ATV jack that has a flat top, which i hope will hold the manual trans. i have a haynes camaro manual which is not worth jack, (it tells me how to do the whole removal/install in less than 20 steps..) i will have a few guys helping me, hopefully.

to tell you the truth, im not sure of how all the parts go, sofar. since ive never taken out a trans, thats like the big question mark on a automobile for me.. ive dabbled with almost everything cept a manual trans...so its gonna be a good experience for me. i think... im gonna purchase some new flywheel bolts...is that the bolts you can see from the outside? the ones where they're in between the trans and engine? cuz i think the last time i was under my car, i saw a bunch of missing bolts... not sure if they were but it seemed that way... only 8 bucks, so why not, right? :/


i have heard from a friend that removing and putting back the trans is the hardest part, the install of the clutch is relatively simple.. as long as i dont force anything and i make sure theres no oil on the clutch plate surface...

[ikeyballz]

ooh, i'll prolly end up using two jackstands with two ramps. and keep two jackstands for the shaft? which the haynes manual says i need to keep something up with something of something.. jackstand... lol :P

im decently mechanically oriented..so im hoping i'll understand wtf they're talking about when its out! pwahaha :D im not too worreied about downtime since i can just use a diff car.. so im gonna try do it right, and take a few days if need be..

[Outsider]

Since you're mechanically inclined, you should be fine. It'll help to have an extra set of hands. If you have the time, it's worth it to get the flywheel resurfaced again, especially if it's performance parts and you're gonna be somewhat hard on it. Just take your time and pay attention to details. The first time you do it, you'll never forget. Good Luck :burnoutgif:

[ikeyballz]

thanks dudes. ill check the condition of the flywheel.. anything i should be worried about? anything that tells me that i NEED to get the flywheel resurfaced and stuff?

[Outsider]

Dark spots/check marks. Wipe it down and put a straight edge against it and see if there's any light peeking though. Since you resurfaced recently, it should be ok, unless you were really hard on it, which it doesn't sound like you were. But since it's a pain to have to go back in there, you might as well resurface...plus you have another car to use. So yeah, take your time. Double check everything. Oh...and have fun :eek9: .

[ikeyballz]

pwahaha fun you say.. :P ill try to not get cut up in the process. i swear to god my car has at least half a pint of my blood dripping all over it.. :/ hahah yeah, ill try see if i can get a new flywheel/resurfaced.. i really want a lightened one, my friend says you get some mean revving from it.. so idk. haha

[Outsider]

oh yah that's right...
i forgot about the blood.
been there/done that.
if i collected every drop of blood i've lost working on cars...



yuck. :barfaway:

[xurusaibobx]

theres pros and cons to lighter flywheels...
i did a auto trans swap on my driveway and it wasnt that fun...dropping it and raising it is the problem..

[ikeyballz]

haha i see.. im gonna do a driveway job too, except it is on flat ground, ill have two+ floor jacks, one ATV jack (flat surface, hope the trans balances on it..) and 4 jackstands and two ramps.. prolly ramps on front wheels, jacks on back, and idk what the other 2 are for.. if atv dont work, ill use two jacks to bring er down.. i just hope i do the right prep- work to get it to work..

they actually have flywheels (rebuilt) for 36 bucks at checkers..so im thinking of picking em up..new bolts, fluids (ive been told to totally drain it, might as well since its out...), clutch, alignment tool, misc other tools, im also gonna make sure everything is a-ok before i get er back in...new gaskets, bearings, and since im gonna take off the shaft i might as well do the U-joints too? lol :P gonna cost me ~ballpark 350ish including the clutch! and a week or less, hopefully. well, thanks for all the tips guys.. im off to make me some money in the next two weeks.. 20hrs on top of school..

so that i can buy the stuffs i need to get my tranny working good :] its actually gotten me giddy. this sounds kinda fun..

im sure i'll be swearing up a storm when it comes to it.. but hey... at least i can say 'i changed my own clutch' haha :D

[ikeyballz]

my god.. i finally got the damn thing out..took three days, working maybe 3-4 hours a day..going super slow, just to make sure everythings ok..

so now that its out i have a few questions.. how the F do i stick her back in? its like it was such a ***** to take out im afraid of the putting back in part..
the trans came out so angled, how am i gonna angle it back in to fit it back? its crazy? loosen motor mounts? x_X im so lost right now lol..

the back end of the engine gotta sag down or else i cant get everything to fit.. what should i do? O_o

[ikeyballz]

hmm.. someone was saying loosen the motor mounts w. a cherry picker.. i have the cherry picker so its possible.. what is the best way guys? :p

loosen mounts..

force the sucker in? jack the front of the engine so the back sags?

[Outsider]

You should be ok with whatever angle you had when you took out the trans. So long as you can put it back in without the the transmission tunnel/floorpan getting in the way. The more you angle the motor, the more you're going to struggle trying to get the input shaft/clutch spline/pilot bushing lined up (an alignment tool helps, but once the input shaft starts going in, it won't take much to go out of alignment). So the flatter the angle, the better. Especially since it's only you.

What might help you as you're guiding the trans in, is some long bolts with the hex-head ground off, that match the trans. bolt threads. Just finger tighten it so it'll unscrew easy when you're done.

But a trans jack would really help...

[Udrivecrap]

so how did it go?

[Ronin]

well, putting the trans back in was the worst part of my clutch job. I had my hulk friend help me muscle that sh!t back in.

never again. I paid for my 2nd clutch job...

[ikeyballz]

haha.. not done yet, car is in the driveway taking up space for a while.. waiting for flywheel to come in, and then im gonna go rent a trans adaptor for a normal jack, then try.. x_X yeah, the floorpan actually sortof hits..so idk how its gonna work, but we'll see.. thanks guys.

[Outsider]

When I had my '71 Chevy pickup, what made it easier was the factory removeable trans-tunnel. But that would be too much humbug to make, especially if you won't be doing a lot of swapping.

Rebuilt flywheels for $36? Damn I wish we had those back then...

[ikeyballz]

hehe its actually 130 but w. the core return, you get 90 back! woot woot.

bleah its being a beach tho, i cant get the flywheel off without the tool..and i gotta go rent the sucker :/

btw, black dots = burn marks, right? i have a lot of those on the side w. the fingers... the flywheel side looks..unused/clean almost.. wtf? O_oo;

still gotta get it off..

[Udrivecrap]

when you took the trans off, the motor must have bounced back upwards. now the tunnel hits when you try to install, because you have to install the trans straight. flex the motor back down, you shouldn't have to loosen the mounts.

the flywheel should come right off after you take the bolts off. i haven't changed a clutch in the later V8's with the one piece seal, i'm guessing the flywheel is stuck on the crank.

sometimes i have to use a special tool to get the pilot bushing out. of course you are probably going to change that anyway since your there and its so cheap and it should have come with your new clutch kit.

anyway... let us know how you do.

[ikeyballz]

thanks thanks.. now i have a new prob..took off the clutch plate, the finger thingy too, and i got all that off.. the thing with the fingers: the pressure plate(? is that what its called?) has little black spots allll over..and i have a replacement so im not worried about that, but the flywheel..THAT looks like its ok. what should i do? change flywheel also? or what.. it looks super clean, no burn marks..it looks almost rusty. (Could be cuz it was sitting there). i wanted to get a new one, but i was stupid and spent $ on other stuff so to get it i'd have to wait till the 20th for paychecks to come in.. and then id have to wait at least a week...since christmas shipping = hell.

i was thinking, clean it a little with really fine sandpaper, reinstall..brake cleaner everything a LOT, and then clean it off, and then install the clutch. its a generic clutch, so who knows, clutch might go also.. in a few years im thinking of getting a better race clutch with a lightened flywheel..i dont really want to get rid of the flywheel i got right now cuz if im gonna buy one, i want to sort of get the lightened oned...

should i stil wait for a flywheel/get it machined/ reuse it?

[Udrivecrap]

yeah. that's the pressure plate (finger thingy). you should have a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing with your kit.

like it was said earlier about resurfacing, if the old flywheel looks clean with no grooves and the car wasn't vibrating or you weren't experiencing abnormal clutch problems it should be ok without having it resurfaced again. clean it and re-install the mess.

unless the car is brand new i don't usually go to extremes to repair it for daily use if ever i have to do the repair.

a lighter flywheel, performance clutch and maybe a lighter driveshaft... you should notice the difference from stock.

[ikeyballz]

awwright! thanks man, im gonna start putting things back tommorow, after i clean everything.
the car felt totally fine except for the clutch not grabbing and i think i figured out why..grease leaked in from somewhere into the back of the clutch it looks like. the clutch looks decent, actually. maybe ill sell it to someone who wants to take the chance of it being shitty.. :/ lol


yeah, i figure if it still sucks im gonna go all out and buy a performance clutch+lightened flywheel...still gonna be cheaper (and faster) than taking it to the shop.. lolz x_+ hope i can install everything good, but tis been fun so far, nothing really really complicating..just.. lots of hours of grunting.

time for me to go to checkers tommorow to buy/rent a trans jack adapater + flywheel holder tool thing.

[Outsider]

Did you check where that "grease" (maybe oil) came from? I would guess either the throwout bearing started leaking (there's not much grease sealed in there), or the input shaft seal on the trans. You should find out before reassembly, or you'll end up with the clutch slipping in a short time.

Do you have a pilot bearing or bushing? If it's a bronze bushing, we used to take those out with a hammer and chisel. You just gotta take your time. But if you've got the tool, use the tool.

[Udrivecrap]

right... and check your freeze plugs while your at it.

[ikeyballz]

i assumed it was from bad practices of the previous install.. + road dust...(That the grease-oil-thing came from).. the trans shaft side is clean, the t.o bearing is a bit rusty/beat up looking so maybe its from that... they might have reused the old t.o. bearing..

ill have to figure out how to get the pilot bearing out.. i do have the one in the kit.

ill go ask if they have the tool @ checkers!

[Zhanshi]

Hammer and chiseled it for my car. Very carefully though, since those things are usually stuck on pretty good. The tool should work if you can get your hands on one.

Also, check the input shaft seal like Outsider said. The clutch you showed me yesterday did show signs of ATF.

[ikeyballz]

roger. im gonna be working on that today... came back from werk. er...well, skipped out..idk. gave up haha :P

[Udrivecrap]

don't give up... you haven't started swearing in your posts yet :D

go back outside :hand:... it might be a good idea to take off the flywheel anyway and check those freeze plugs too. if its the manual trans fluid or water or both leaking in there. one or both could have caused your slipping problems. IIRC from your original posts the clutch was slipping. hard to say if its that or a weak pressure plate without seeing what's going on in there.

side note: on high mile engine/drivetrains, changing a "shaft seal" might not stop a leak. there can be a groove worn on the shaft from the seal (and dirt) from many miles of use and abuse.. and a new seal won't seal in the groove.

[Udrivecrap]

oh one more thing about checking as much as you can... earlier i said this:

unless the car is brand new i don't usually go to extremes to repair it for daily use if ever i have to do the repair.

that holds true if the car has high miles and i want it to be a reliable daily driver. if you just want a quick fix and you KNOW you will be in there again for upgrades or other repairs.. just slap it together with what you got, then you'll find out what else you need after you start it and run it for a few miles.

that's the brokanic method of fixing things. there's a right way and a wrong way and the udrivecrap way :gapteeth:

[Outsider]

oh one more thing about checking as much as you can... earlier i said this:



that holds true if the car has high miles and i want it to be a reliable daily driver. if you just want a quick fix and you KNOW you will be in there again for upgrades or other repairs.. just slap it together with what you got, then you'll find out what else you need after you start it and run it for a few miles.

that's the brokanic method of fixing things. there's a right way and a wrong way and the udrivecrap way :gapteeth:

Hey...
did that guy make it over here, from the other place? :biggrinbounce2:

Oh yeah I forgot about the freezeplugs. And the "wear" groove on the input shaft...

[ikeyballz]

yessah. i figure i be in there again, sooner or later.. dont want a stocker clutch and a heavy flywheel anyway..

im gonna prolly spring for a trans jack btw too, so i figure it might be a bit easier the 2nd time around..

150 for trans jack..figure its prolly worth it... getting flywheel tool now from checkers so that i can take off the flywheel to check it closer.. then gonna tighten everything up and then buy the trans jack tommorow when i get my paycheck :D. stick her back in maybe this weekend and then hopefully it'll work.

[Udrivecrap]

Hey...
did that guy make it over here, from the other place? :biggrinbounce2:

yeah, i think there is a s/n like that here...
yessah. i figure i be in there again, sooner or later.. dont want a stocker clutch and a heavy flywheel anyway..

im gonna prolly spring for a trans jack btw too, so i figure it might be a bit easier the 2nd time around..

150 for trans jack..figure its prolly worth it... getting flywheel tool now from checkers so that i can take off the flywheel to check it closer.. then gonna tighten everything up and then buy the trans jack tommorow when i get my paycheck :D. stick her back in maybe this weekend and then hopefully it'll work.

i like to keep the car low so i don't have to lift the trans very much and just enough room for me to work under there. the easiest way i found without using a trans jack (because you need to lift the car pretty high) is to use some cement/wood blocks to build up to the trans. that way i don't have to fight with it and there is less of a chance i will damage the shaft or drop the trans during the install/removal process... which i've done before, plenty times. :gapteeth:

[ikeyballz]

hahaha. hopefully ill avoid damage, seeing how xpensive those damn t56's are going for nowdays...everyone wants to swap it in to every which chevy v8 x_X.

ok.. so ive hit another snag which will probably make me put this on hold for at LEAST a few days..

1) trans jack = unavailable @ checkers (the one i wanted..they only have the high lift one, i wanted the one you attach to your floor jack.. gonna go check sears now..

2) flywheel is a LOT worse than i thought.. all these little black burn spots that i didnt see under the car (its dark) i can see now.. so im gonna have to get that sucker resurfaced..

waiting on a friend @ sonics..left a message to see if they have a machinist who can resurface the flywheel..

grr.. and i wanted to get the flywheel + clutch on by today too!

oh well..i have some patience for once... not gonna rush this sucker too much.. not gonna do a awesome job, since its my first time so not gonna shell out the big bucks but.. ill do it right, hopefully. also gonna head down to checkers right now to go buy some flywheel bolts.. i broke TWO count em, TWO craftsman sockets (3/8ths) on the flywheel just now.. had to borrow my dads 1/2" impact socket set to get the damn thing unstuck...5/6 came off easy, the 6th broke both sockets :D

so yeah, to sears to get two new sockets (love their warranty..) and to check for a trans jack!

[Udrivecrap]

its a weird feeling when the socket breaks.... makes you wonder how you are going to get it off. :confused:

definitely the 1/2" drive with a breaker bar while you lock the flywheel still. sometimes i have to use a short length of pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage. (remember, 6 point sockets grab the bolt better than a 12 point, less of a chance to strip the bolt)

i'm just going off with advice here, i hope it makes sense and helps. i'm trying to be as accurate as possible with my posts. usually i give what little technical advice i have to people in person.

disclaimer: i'm not a certified mechanic, i'm an enthusiast with alot of experience and the things i post are believed to be true and accurate but are not guaranteed.:D cheeehooo.

[ikeyballz]

ay no worries if i break something, its more my fault than anyone elses hahaha

yeah, i busted out the pipe, breaker bar + the 1/2" impact bits.. lol :P i gotta go rent a trans jack.. they dont have one @ sears.. i also have to go get the mosquitotire resurfaced.. that thing is jacked up! x_X

heard about 'teds machine shop' from friend @ sonics.. im gonna give em a call tommorow, see if i can drop it off after work or something.! its getting there..slowly..slowly..

haha its so shitty cuz i know what i have to do now.. its just..all the slow steps cuz i didnt think this through too well =P

[Udrivecrap]

teds is closer to town. snyders is in waipahu.

i met this guy who has a shop in waipahu http://www.pmehawaii.com/ ... i'm not sure if he does what you need, you'd have to call and ask. he'd be a good place to check when you want a 383 stroker and some head work done. :D

some auto parts stores and repair shops might be able to do your flywheel without charging you an arm and a leg.

[xurusaibobx]

u using impact sockets? lol

idk about sears tools anymore they seem to be el cheapo now but heck break up just return um

[Outsider]

Wow 3/8's socket?
I worry when I use 1/2 drive with breaker bar and pipe extension on flywheel bolts.

Actually I worry more about it slipping off...
Especially if it slips and your knuckles go right into the floorpan, and then you swear, and then the socket end of the breaker bar falls and goes "KATONK"...right on your forehead.

I mean, not to say that something like that ever happened...:beatup: :hilarious:

[ikeyballz]

hahaha when zhanshi was helping me earlier he was yanking on the trans bolts and he pulled the pipe onto his head :P

and yeah, im using impact wrench sockets cuz im afeared im gonna break more of my tools :( broke three craftsman sockets in my life.. one was cuz of wrong usage...and these two lol :P

the flywheel bolts werent on THAT tight, since i could do it one handed, under the car with my right hand holding the socket left hand pulling the pipe.. dang i gotta go rent me a torque wrench too. x_+. so much stuff to rent before xmas starts oh noe.

my dad has a tq wrench but idk if its any good... flyhweel getting resurfaced right now..

[idiosyncratic]

well... at the very least... you're learning lots! and will know (more or less) what it needs to get a clutch job done...
.
by the way...
i think my truck needs a clutch job soon...
wanna help? :gapteeth: j/k j/k j/k

[ikeyballz]

well... at the very least... you're learning lots! and will know (more or less) what it needs to get a clutch job done...
.
by the way...
i think my truck needs a clutch job soon...
wanna help? j/k j/k j/k
hahaha im up for it! gimmie a pm or soemthing, and if im free and on break id deff help! you guys have been helping me out online so its the least i can do :D


we cant dilly dally like the way ive been tho.. lol :P gotta buy everything BEFORE hand i learned >_< man. school of hard-ish knocks right here..and the sad thing is its not even the hard part of INSTALLATION lol bleah :P so far its been just hell trying to scrape together the stuff i need.. buy this..that..this... ah well, its all g i guess. very good learning experience w. lots of help from you guys, alan, dad, bao, cassie (gf)..etc.

got back the flyhweel but i cant bolt it back up cuz
1) no tq wrench
2) no flywheel bolts. <its in waipahu and im getting it driven down to dillingham checkers.. lol

it seems i post here very time i do something haha pretty soon its gonna be

'ooh i tightened one bolt to the right torque!..'

'ooh next one!' hahaha =P

oh, and while i was @ checkers i picked up r134 so i can have AC in the DD (While the maros broken- neon) yay. AC!

[kombi731]

do you need to borrow a tq wrench?? how much is the max tq spec you're looking at?

[Udrivecrap]

without looking at the book... i think the flywheel bots are in the 65 lb range.

torque wrenches need to be calibrated once in a while... never use one to break a bolt loose even though it goes in reverse.

if you can find them, i'd rather use grade 8 bolts on the back of the crank. those factory bolts and the ones from Checkers are grade 5, if i'm not mistaken :D those and head bolts are the ones you can't and shouldn't get from Home Depot or Ace Hardware.

ARP bolts are the prefferred method as they are the best bolts on the market.

[ikeyballz]

ohh. . i already got mr. gasket bolts :( guessing those arent too good..but those were the only ones i could find.. shoulda asked the guy @ teds... he had choke ARP bolts all over the place..

well, with the lightened flywheel that i would like to do in a year or two..deff spring for the ARP that time.

as for the torque wrench, i think its gotta go till 100ft/lbs cuz i think ONE of the bolts..eithier the flywheel, clutch or trans is set to that.. i think i'll use my dads one.. and then tighten it up a BIT more after that.. prolly wont be dropping the clutch like crazy anyway so it should be ok..i think.. lol :P

[Udrivecrap]

i just checked on a 94 LT-1....that flywheel is 100nm which is 74ft lbs of torque. make sure, don't over tighten cuz they can break.

[Zhanshi]

See Ike and you said the 4 foot extension wouldnt work.. Funny stuff though, safety goggles ftw!

And make sure you dont snap the pressure plate bolts when you're attaching it to the flywheel.

[ikeyballz]

bleah. pilot bearing stays stuck. im not gonna take it off.. no grooves or anything in it, i cant find a good way to take it out cuz i think chiseling it will **** up the engine side... they said get grease, pack the back of the bearing and force it out by pushing a rod through the bearing so hydraulically comes off.. couldnt find right size dowel ._. i did find one, but i gotta cut it cuz it tapers lol :P no need i think..the pilot bearings clean...ill take it off the next clutch change

pt 2) got the flywheel torqued in before the rain started... stupid rain -__-. 75 ft/lbs it is.. thanks udrive! i would have had to search for hours...stupid haynes manual SUCKS lol its all over the place..

they have the pressure plate tq spec under 'clutch' flywheel spec under 'engine' and transmission bolts under 'manual trans'

-_-

[Outsider]

Chiltons is just as bad, in a different way though.
Haynes has nicer pics.
Too bad no one makes user-friendly service/repair manuals that makes sense and has nice pics....

hmmmm....:really:

[Keith DC5]

bleah. pilot bearing stays stuck. im not gonna take it off.. no grooves or anything in it, i cant find a good way to take it out cuz i think chiseling it ...

There's a tool that resembles a slide-hammer that you'll need to use, when remove the pilot bushing. Do not leave it in there because you may experience excessive radial play

[ikeyballz]

ack. too late.. lolz X_x its a done deal, the pilot bearing should have been changed when the clutch was changed before..so i hope it doesnt cause probs...

i hope to do this again soon anyways too..:/ hopefully w. a trans jack by then.


had so much close calls today lolz, had 4 guys helping me or so.. damn, it sucks to do trans.. lol x_X

[Keith DC5]

ack. too late.. lolz X_x its a done deal, the pilot bearing should have been changed when the clutch was changed before..so i hope it doesnt cause probs...

i hope to do this again soon anyways too..:/ hopefully w. a trans jack by then.


had so much close calls today lolz, had 4 guys helping me or so.. damn, it sucks to do trans.. lol x_X

I know how you feel. I just R&R'd my trans to replace the clutch, with nothing more than a hydraulic jack to raise/lower the transmission :really: That was probably the most nerve racking experience esp. since I did everything completely by myself. At least RWD platforms are relatively easier to work on. I had to remove almost everything short of the engine itself just to gain access to the transmission :(

[Rob]

I know how you feel. I just R&R'd my trans to replace the clutch, with nothing more than a hydraulic jack to raise/lower the transmission :really: That was probably the most nerve racking experience esp. since I did everything completely by myself. At least RWD platforms are relatively easier to work on. I had to remove almost everything short of the engine itself just to gain access to the transmission :(


Another reason you should buy domestic... (You knew I was going there right?):freakout:

[ikeyballz]

hahaha my trans was so damn heavy tho.. i had 4 guys helping me under the car, one of them prolly saved my ass..

god... hahaha i was so lucky. got to drive my car xmas day :D finally finished all the small stuff so it works.. but my oil pressure sensor got banged up or something and its not sending right..so i gotta go fix that...

gotta drive the baby around a bit tommorow..to work, back..then shes back up on stands and i gotta check for the oil pressure sensor, and misc. bolts to make sure its runnning ok.

the clutch chatters a bit.. grabs real firm now.. but there is some chatter.. is that normal? the book said it was but idk.. it might just be a loose exhaust mount.

[Keith DC5]

Another reason you should buy domestic... (You knew I was going there right?):freakout:

It's just FF cars in general. Everything is so compact and every bit of space is utilized, so you usually have to remove several components before you can get to what you're trying to service.

...the clutch chatters a bit.. grabs real firm now.. but there is some chatter.. is that normal? the book said it was but idk.. it might just be a loose exhaust mount.

Motor mounts can cause clutch chatter, but it may also be caused by:

-Air in the clutch hydraulic system if the car is equipped with one
-Clutch contamination due to grease or oil on the friction surfaces
-Damaged or distorted clutch cover caused by "hanging" the transmission input shaft on the clutch during reinstallation
-The flywheel itself. You don't need to replace or resurface it, but you need to refinish it (sand it) for a non-directional finish

[ikeyballz]

1) air in hydraulic -> gotta check that out
2) clutch contamination -> could be, but i sprayed that sucker down and wiped it down and then sprayed it again w. brake cleaner..so hopefully not
3) distorted clutch cover-> i hope its not, again..but it could be..cuz we did hang it on there.. a few times.. x_X
4) flywheel was resurfaced


ok.. so il go check out the air and try bleed the system.. when im retightening the bolts under teh car..


thanks guys, you all were a lifesaver along w. the pals who showed up to muscle the trans up there for me!

[ikeyballz]

btw.. it still grabs WAY better then before.. even with the chatter and not worn in right..it grabs stronger, and the pedal feel is hella better... hope it gets better, and not worse..


btw, does anyone know how to adjust a camaro clutch? i want it to engage lower..and it seems to engage a little lower than before, but i want it lower still..can i just shim up the clutch slave? lmao

[Keith DC5]

Yeah new clutches tend to be "grabby" until the friction surfaces burnish. As for the pedal adjustment, usually it's a matter of loosening the locknut and playing with the push rod for the master cylinder. Be ready to get into some awkward, back-breaking positions though

[ikeyballz]

ohh i adjust the master cylinder side.. i catch. i was just gonna stuff some stuff on the slave side lol x_x two days before i put er up on stands.. see whats making all that chatter..seems like my exhaust is vibrating too.. put over 90 miles on it tho! and its mostly not freeway miles so hopefully its breaking in smoothly.. so hard to drive a car nicely nowdays..

[Outsider]

No need Clutch buu...:hilarious:
4a8SNT3uy-4&rel

[ikeyballz]

i can shift without clutching on a neon.. cant start off without the clutch tho.. hahaha =P love the two hands through the steeringwheel clutch change. thats hardcore..


whats that little red lever btw? is that a hi/lo gear?

[Rob]

No need Clutch buu...:hilarious:
4a8SNT3uy-4&rel

single stick?.... c'mon... REAL men drive with 2 sticks!