View Full Version : Formula Mirage Rebuild
A brief history on these amazing road racing cars:
Formula Mirage Series was Mitsubishi's answer to the successful junior level Formula Toyota series in Japan . . . the (toyota) racing series where Jacque Villenue debut as a professional driver before moving on to F3 and eventually Indycar and F1.
These cars we're designed and built by Van Diemen, U.K.
The engine is provided by Mitsubishi's Rally Art department and the transaxles are Mazda Speed with Enkei cases.
We brought 7 of these cars to Hawaii for our new racing school (Hawaii International Racing School) back in 1992. After the closure of HRP in 2006, these cars were sold to another entity. Since then, I've been asked to refurbish the cars as race ready.
This thread is for keeping everyone updated to what has come about these awesome cars to date.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/2/medium/FM1Bodywork_Paint7_07_34_.jpg
ArchangelX
04-11-2008, 09:19 PM
Love it...can't wait to see the finished car...the individual pieces look beautiful!
One of the first things I did was test out the local powder coating shops. I gave them 10 wheel centers to get coated. They turned out awesome, but was a little pricey.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/10_powder_coated_centers.jpg
Yeah Mike, I started it . . .
ArchangelX
04-11-2008, 09:27 PM
Holy crap...they look SOOOO much better! It looks brand new! I hated cleaning those things, honestly...bwhahaha.
For those of you with the JDM interest, the wheels are Works Racing. But, that will be the last things to put together before the cars are done.
freeride
04-12-2008, 01:32 AM
that is f'n cool!!!
did they end up in private collections?
any side views?
. . . next was to get the chromoly suspension pieces redone. I had them powder-coated and then threw some tiny ball bearings in them, shook them up (to relieve all the loose rust) and filled them with rust converter. Then anti-siezed the threads after tapping them out and then installed the cleaned heim joints.
There's alot of pieces . . . took me awhile.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/suspension_powder_coated_1.jpg
Also did the uprights and any other aluminum pieces I could throw in.
All billet aluminum parts were cleaned and polished. You would have to have an air dremel to do this, otherwise it would take you an eternity.
Process: wet sand with 1000 grip paper, then buff with dremel tool w/buffing pad with liquid rubbing compound.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Polished_Aluminum_Parts_4_.jpg
Here's a link:
http://www.formulahawaii.com/car_profile.htm
Here's the before and after shot of the rear uprights.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Before_After_rr_uprights.jpg
You wouldn't believe how many parts these guys have. It took me 3 days to assemble all four. I froze the wheel bearings and torched the uprights, then pressed the bearings in place. I painted the wheel hubs with 1000 degree barbeque grill paint. I hope that the paint won't bubble under the extreme heat generated from braking.
Here's a picture of the finished front assembly.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/front_assembly.jpg
The "cow catcher" (battery box frame) was powder coated with 'extreme chrome' as well as the cast aluminum housing. Brake masters are girling .70. This front assembly hosts the front sway bar, brake masters, battery, front coilovers, steering rack and the support bar for the front wings.
Here's a modification I had to do. I installed a fluid level indicator onto the transaxle. Before, there was no way to check the gear oil level except by draining the case and refilling with the required 2 quarts. I burned up 2 lay shafts because the trans were low on oil. Not anymore!
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/11_05_07_0271.jpg
These cases are copied from Volkswagon by Enkei, BUT Mazda Speed put them together. Good thing the gears are interchangable with Hewland, but I had to get 3 input shafts made at a cost of $550 a piece. $2 level indicator could have prevented this . . . go figure.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/MK5_Layshaft_jan06b.jpg
Here's a close up of the newly painted "black mirage" . . . well, it's green now. The paint is urethane enamel in Jaguar racing green with no clear coat (didn't have time, but very shiny).
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/FM1_body.jpg
Here's a side view:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM_Monte_Carlo.jpg
Wheel center comparison, old and new:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/wheel_comparison.jpg
This is not technical, but interesting. I was invited to test out the grounds at the Aloha Stadium. We set up a temporary road course that took up about half the parking lot. Hey, i was able to get up into 4th gear, which is 100+ mph. Those concrete light poles flashing by was unnerving though.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Mirage_test_Aloha_Stadium_Nov.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/Mirage_test_3_Aloha_Stadium_Nov_01.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/Mirage_test_5_Aloha_Stadium_Nov_01.jpg
ArchangelX
04-19-2008, 07:15 PM
Any updated pix, Tom?
Well, I just spent the last hour reloading all the pictures because I moved them to an album. If I would have thought of that first, maybe I wouldn't have created the Formula Mirage Album in the first place, haha.
Here are the brake calipers: Lockheed LD20 fronts, and LD19 Rears. I sand blasted the corrosion off, then painted them with the 1000 degree barbeque paint. They're also rebuilt as well.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FRT_RR_Calipers.jpg
Newly acquired sand blasting cabinet for cleaning parts.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Sand_Blasting_Cabinet.jpg
As I disassembled the suspension, I noticed that the bolts were wrong. The grip length was too short (the grip length is the part of the bolt that is not threaded). If the bolt is threaded on the second bore it will be loose. So, I decided to replace all the bolts, nylocks and washers with new AN (airframe) hardware.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/An_Bolts.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/An_Bolts_Inserted.jpg
ArchangelX
04-20-2008, 12:24 PM
Alright, those calipers are just plain stealth...that will look really good behind those gold-toned centerpieces. You should repaint the car black, and make it look like an F117A. Hehahaha. Just kidding. ;)
By the way . . . if you're interested in buying "real" race hardware and parts, a good place to shop is www.pegasusautoracing.com. I've been ordering my stuff from them for years. They sell from hardware, heim joints, steel braided lines to gauges, extinguishers, brakes, fuel cells, harnesses, roll cages and a whole bunch of other neat stuff.
Alright, those calipers are just plain stealth...that will look really good behind those gold-toned centerpieces. You should repaint the car black, and make it look like an F117A. Hehahaha. Just kidding. ;)
(oops, hit the wrong button there Mike, sorry for the edit)
After I'm finished with the cars they will cost just as much as a fighter jet.
corytomo
04-21-2008, 12:40 PM
Wow nice!!! So the cars are still in Hawaii? That's good, I was afraid they'd be shipped to the mainland and I'd never have a chance to try a forumla mirage out..
Wow nice!!! So the cars are still in Hawaii? That's good, I was afraid they'd be shipped to the mainland and I'd never have a chance to try a forumla mirage out..
Yup, they're still here. I did sell the Spec Racers though. A guy from the east coast bought all 9 cars. Hopefully when a new track opens we'll have 3 badass Mirages and maybe a fourth. I have 6 tubs in all.
corytomo
04-22-2008, 10:40 AM
If that happens, sign me up for some lessons!
dkmini
04-22-2008, 11:02 AM
Oh hell yah! I'm with Cory. I think I was the last one signed-up for Forumla Hawaii but curse the rains - I got shafted by the crazy rain we had on the last day of the track. :( Only good thing about the rain was I got to see Ed H's parking lot tsunami action. ;)
Kamakura kid
04-22-2008, 11:42 AM
Me too! Me too! I'd fly back to Hawaii for that!:cheer3:
corytomo
04-22-2008, 12:14 PM
ok, we gotta set up a formula mirage day when the track opens!
I hear you guys! Go to the OMAC hosted meeting next week Thursday for the announcement and info on our progress. (OMAC section for the info of when and where).
Here's the brake calipers again, but a before and after shot.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/brake_caliper_comparison.jpg
Here's the brake rotors, before and after.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/brake_rotors_before_and_after.jpg
Finished product:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/brake_rotor_final.jpg
Oh hell yah! I'm with Cory. I think I was the last one signed-up for Forumla Hawaii but curse the rains - I got shafted by the crazy rain we had on the last day of the track. :( Only good thing about the rain was I got to see Ed H's parking lot tsunami action. ;)
Rainy days at the old track was far from few, but that was real funny when Ed parked in the middle of the lake and opened his door. Didn't know how much of a swell a neon can produce while accelerating through the water. Poor guy.
Car #1 gets a new cutch disc.
These "metal" clutch discs don't really wear out, they flake off their material. So this car gets a new disc.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/clutch_disc.jpg
Notice the lightweight flywheel . . . these engines really rev up fast.
Clutch disc and pressure plate by AP.
Okay, here's some pics of the oil tank/bell housing. Because these cars have a "dry sump" system, there is a remote tank for the engnine oil. It is also the bell housing. This is the reason why these cars are about a foot longer than similar 4 cylinder formula cars--because the oil tank sits in between the engine and transaxle. Having a dry sump system is also beneficial because the oil pan is butted up as close the the rotating crank shaft as much as possible. This allows us to run the cars much lower than a car that stores oil in the oil pan. In other words, the crankshaft is spining a couple of inches off the ground! The transaxle case (VW design) is inverted for the same purpose. The input shaft (which centers with the engine flywheel), is normally on top of the output shaft that is now on the bottom allowing the engine to sit even lower. Does this make sense? Here are some photos of the oil tank getting it's clutch release bearing assembly:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/oiltank1.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/oiltank2.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/oiltank3.jpg
Funny story: When I raced Formula Korea, one of the rules in the new series was that all parts on the cars had to be Korean made. Well, a drysump oil system at the time wasn't available, so the cars had an oil pan. In a lightweight car like a formula car, this meant that the engine was about 4 inched higher than normal. It made a huge negative difference in handling. Not only that, but limited slip differential wasn't avialable either. We just couldn't get the rear tires to grip. I ended up disconnecting the rear sway bar with good results and just about everyone did the same. My car owner, Mr. Kamitani of west racing cars, didn't like that his design was butchered. He insisted that we run with the rear sway bar hooked up. No chance though.
Here's pictures of the oil tank where it goes. With these cars, the engine, oil tank and tranaxle is actually the rear frame of the car (a stressed member of the chassis) connected to the tub by sub-frame connectors. Makes sense because you know that the engine has no flex unlike a tubular chassis. A chassis that has no flex allows the suspension to work more precisely.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/rear.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/rear2.jpg
ArchangelX
04-25-2008, 10:49 AM
Cool stuff, Tom!
corytomo
04-25-2008, 12:31 PM
Wow interesting...
Rear assembly (you know, I'm making up the names because I don't what they're really called):
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/11_05_07_030.jpg
This assembly is billet aluminum (polished) that hosts the rear sway bar, coilovers and a-arm. It bolts directly under the transaxle.
Working on these cars and their parts is like building a full scale RC car . . . really!
Front uprights (no really, that's what they're called):
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/front_uprights_1.jpg
The uprights are powder coated with 'extreme chrome' by Mekala Powercoating in Campbell Industrial. They're fitted with new wheel bearings (because the old one's fall apart on removal). Brand new looking, eh? It will be alot easier cleaning off the brake dust now.
Here's a shot of the rear assembly under the transaxle.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Chris_rear_view.jpg
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM1_with_chris.jpg
Chris Messer helping me get the car on the trailer to take to last year's "Build the Track! Motorsports Show" at ATM. Don't forget this year's show June 12 at Aloha Tower Market Place. The Mirage will be there with new Firestone or Bridgestone tires I heard!
corytomo
04-25-2008, 02:10 PM
Those uprights look like RC car uprights, down to the metal bearings... lol
Those uprights look like RC car uprights, down to the metal bearings... lol
Yup!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g290/trackblazer/F1RCCars.jpg
Here's one to scale:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g290/trackblazer/F1Beneton2.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g290/trackblazer/F1Beneton.jpg
Okay, been doing some more work.
I just selected, out of the inventory, a set of shocks for this rebuild. Unfortunately I don't have a shock dyno or spring tester. The spring rate tester cost over $800, so I'm sure a shock dyno is unobtainable for me (we're talking about racing school cars now. As long as it functions well). All four shocks seem to be in very good condition. New bump stops were installed as well. I had to cut them down to size. They will have to be tested for length when the car is running. I made them as long as possible for that reason.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_2_11_.jpg
The shocks are Bilsteins. Too bad they're not double adjustable. I can get into some real tuning if they were, especially on the rebound side. I'm installing stiffer springs as well. 800 lbs up front and 1000 in the rear (anticipating brand new smooth asphalt on the new road course).
This is the engine oil scavenging pump for the dry sump system. It's not made to produce much pressure. It's primary function is to circulate oil from the tank back to the engine. The engine still has an internal (pressure) oil pump.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_2_2_.jpg
This is the engine, oil tank/bell housing and transaxle together and attached to the tub. Man, I wrestled with this thing for 2 days . . . it just wouldn't go together and plus it weighs a ton! Come to find out, one of the pieces (the 'W' mount, which attaches the bottom front of the engine to the bottom rear of the tub) was off another car. I didn't know that they were custom made for each car. I put the original one in and everything bolted together--lesson learned.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_2_6_.jpg
ArchangelX
05-06-2008, 08:15 PM
Schweet! It's getting closer to being done!
Schweet! It's getting closer to being done!
Gotta hurry though . . . car show coming up next month.
Rear suspension going together. Because of the powder coating, the thickness of the coating made me have to file down some sims, but it went together well. I cleaned up the shocks and painted the springs.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Rear_Suspension_3_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Rear_Suspension_14_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Rear_Suspension_12_.JPG
This is a rocker-arm type suspension, front and rear. That's '70's technology, but these cars were built in the nighties. So, they're about 18 years old now.
corytomo
05-07-2008, 08:50 AM
That's very nice Tom, can't wait to see it all finished at the show!
That's very nice Tom, can't wait to see it all finished at the show!
I can't wait either.
The rear end is pretty much done after today. Going to work on the front end next. God! It's not a matter of bolting the parts on. I spent the morning inventorying the hardware shipment that just came in and the rest of the afternoon working on the rearend . . . so much to do . . . gotta do it right.
ArchangelX
05-07-2008, 09:48 PM
Holy crap...that's f'ing sexy right there! I used to HATE having to polish those upper mounts 'cuz they would just rust again overnight.
Good job, Tom, can't wait to see the finished product. If you don't get it done by the Build The Track! Show I'm going to be seriously upset with you. :asthanos:
idiosyncratic
05-08-2008, 08:47 AM
ooh. yup. great going Tom! I'm gonna love seeing it :keith: at the show :photo: :fingersx: :D
I'm pretty sure it'll be done before the show unless I run into some major problems.
ArchangelX
05-08-2008, 04:31 PM
Don't play with my emotions, Tom. :wtf:
As soon as I get the front on it's good to go for the show. My goal however is to get the car race ready. When you see the front end on, we're good for the show . . . and that's going to be a beaut.
tomei>matt
05-10-2008, 04:22 AM
Found a diy Vibratory tumblers im sure this will help you in some way or another cleaning by hand always took forever
The cost per tumble-finishing unit is about $25, and the lasting seems good. Parts are:
5 gal bucket
4 mounted "caster" wheels
12v wiper motor
1"x3" alum angle
heavy duty 12v PS (cheap battery charger)
abrasive sand
various scrap alum for mounts
The bucket lifts off, the only coupling being a piece of c-channel scrap and half-a lovejoy coupling I had, oh... and some grease:
A pic of the tumbler in action:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205381600_thumb.jpg
The wiper motor:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205381852_thumb.jpg
Even got a video:
<embed id="VideoPlayback" style="width:400px;height:326px" flashvars="" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-2652159715667730301&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed>
A single piece of extruded angle scrap provides the "flip" inside.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205465500_thumb.jpg
FWIW, This machine runs with 40lbs of sand plus the "work".
found this at lumenlab forum they even have diy cnc machines that you can make for about $1000
Found a diy Vibratory tumblers im sure this will help you in some way or another cleaning by hand always took forever
The cost per tumble-finishing unit is about $25, and the lasting seems good. Parts are:
5 gal bucket
4 mounted "caster" wheels
12v wiper motor
1"x3" alum angle
heavy duty 12v PS (cheap battery charger)
abrasive sand
various scrap alum for mounts
The bucket lifts off, the only coupling being a piece of c-channel scrap and half-a lovejoy coupling I had, oh... and some grease:
A pic of the tumbler in action:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205381600_thumb.jpg
The wiper motor:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205381852_thumb.jpg
Even got a video:
<embed id="VideoPlayback" style="width:400px;height:326px" flashvars="" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-2652159715667730301&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed>
A single piece of extruded angle scrap provides the "flip" inside.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-2-1205465500_thumb.jpg
FWIW, This machine runs with 40lbs of sand plus the "work".
found this at lumenlab forum they even have diy cnc machines that you can make for about $1000
Hmm, could get the video link to work.
Is this like a bead rolling machine that polishes metal parts?
Hey the video works now . . . sure would like to see the finished product.
ArchangelX
05-11-2008, 12:53 PM
Oooh...that's cool. Should I move this to another thread, Tom? Don't want to clutter up your thread.
Nah, Matt might say something about working on the cars.
Completed rear half of car . . .
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Mirage_08.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Mirage_08_4_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Mirage_08_7_.JPG
I have to learn how to take pictures. These photos don't do any justice. I'll go back and shoot some more.
Will be back . . .
tomei>matt
05-20-2008, 02:56 AM
to think back to how those cars looked when i worked on them its hard to believe that they look like new. we had enough work just keeping them goin let alone making them look perfect
to think back to how those cars looked when i worked on them its hard to believe that they look like new. we had enough work just keeping them goin let alone making them look perfect
You have to see it in person. The rear wing is painted with urethane enamel and not with a spray can. The transmission case is the one I bought from Japan (the new one) and it looks like the oldest thing on the car. The actual reason for powder coating the parts was to seal them. Remember Matt, we had to scrub off the surface rust everytime?
ArchangelX
05-20-2008, 07:38 PM
Tom, you need to take an overhead shot so we can see how the arms look...you can't tell that well from the side. ;)
Looks badazz.
Here's a close up pic. notice the new AN hardware, they're in gold. I'll try to get some overhead shots later:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_19_6_.JPG
This first car gets it's number:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_19_2_.JPG
Side pod on. Can you see the HT credit?:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/5_19_5_.JPG
ninja_skillz
05-20-2008, 11:17 PM
so ah, tom......how can I drive one?
so ah, tom......how can I drive one?
As soon as asphalt is laid down at P24.
I thought I posted the overhead shot, hmm? Okay, one more time:
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/rear_suspension_overhead.JPG
The front assembly ready to be mounted. I had to fabricate a few things to make it right.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/front_assembly1.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/front_assembly_3_.JPG
kawika219
05-29-2008, 11:41 AM
is this the same car i drove when i was 15? i believe my dad still has the video footage of it
You know what? I think so . . . this was the black Mirage. Post the vid David.
You said you were 16 . . . the minimum age is 16!
kawika219
05-30-2008, 06:28 PM
you're right i was 16...the funny thing is, that car was only the second car i had driven that was standard lol. lemme find that video
Good . . . now you're are politically correct.
An update:
Really tight clearances on moving steering parts.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/clearance.JPG
Front end on . . . finally.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/complete_front.JPG
Front left corner complete . . . almost . . . need to decide on carbon fiber brake duct or painted (in body color) brake duct. Painted for the show if time allows.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/lft_frt.JPG
Before and after shot of front verses rears.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/before_afterwheels.JPG
Took me half day for one.
First rear wheel after complete. Looks like a flower blooming, if you know what I mean.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/rear10x13.JPG
to think back to how those cars looked when i worked on them its hard to believe that they look like new. we had enough work just keeping them goin let alone making them look perfect
well, that's what happens when we're down for a couple of years . . . you know what I mean?
The car's finally on the ground. It's now ready for the show.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM_1_2_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM1_rebuild_5_.JPG
Well, I WAS 95% done with this car to only find out that the engine needs a total rebuild.
I was ready to start the motor and when I did, oil started gushing out of the valve cover! You know what that means? It means that the dry sump oil scavenging pump is not working adequately. Come to find out the there's a bunch of metal shavings (some the size of a dime) caught in the screens that lead to the hoses for the scavenging pump.
Basically how a dry sump oil system works is there's an external oil pump . . .
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Scavenging_punp.JPG
. . . this pump sucks the oil out of the oil pan and dumps it into an external oil tank, where the original internal oil pump sucks it into the engine. So there's no oil in the oil pan, hence the "dry sump".
Metal shavings, both aluminum and steel.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/7_10_08_FM_1_oil_pan_debri_3_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/7_10_08_FM_1_oil_pan_debri_6_.JPG
These motors have never been rebuilt since we bought the cars 16 years ago!
Pulled off all the accessories yesterday, so now I'm ready to tear down the engine for the rebuild.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/Engine_Accessories_5_.JPG
Kamakura kid
07-17-2008, 09:31 AM
Well, I WAS 95% done with this car to only find out that the engine needs a total rebuild.
Big bummer desu...
Poor car . . . since the engine is part of the chassis and, not to mention, in the center, the whole car has to been taken apart.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM_1_7_5_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM_1_7_6_.JPG
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/FM_1_7_7_.JPG
.
ArchangelX
07-17-2008, 09:38 AM
Ouch.
Big bummer desu...
Shikataganai desu ne. (what the heck . . .).
What's up Bill!
I took the head off the block Friday and then turned the block upside down, so I could see where the shreaded bearing came from. It came from one of the counter-balance shafts.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/7_18_6_.JPG
The other CB shaft has worn bearings as well. I guess because the shafts are heavy on one side, they really put alot of pressure on the bearings. I bet the other 2 cars CBS bearings look the same.
The motor itself looks good. I'm going to check all the clearences and if they check out OK, I don't have to do a full rebuild.
corytomo
07-21-2008, 12:10 PM
oh crap that sucks tom!
oh my, the days of rebuilding 4g63 motors is coming back to me now.. hahaha.
remove the balance shafts! :D
looks like not enough oil through that bearing? or just bearing failure?
Hey Cory, got a question: How much more vibration, if any, does the engine produce after removing the harmonic balancers? Keep in mind that the engine is bolted directly to the driver's back . . . there's no motor mounts.
If I could leave the balance shafts out, that would be great!
corytomo
07-23-2008, 05:36 PM
It wasn't all that bad, and I had polyurethane motor mounts. But then again, I was sitting in a comfy seat. The mirror would be shaking like crazy tho, enough that I couldn't see out of it at idle. Felt like a race car, but it might be too crazy for one that is used as a stress member of the chassis.
Yeah, that's what I thought. I was thinking the Mirage series required that the engine was left alone or they kept the balance shafts to minimize vibration. Oh well, looks like I'm going to have to keep them in.
Well, the short block is at Snyder's machine shop at the moment. Mark at Snyder's gave me a grand tour of his shop and I was blown away! He's got machines that float on air, an airconditioned room (for the computer) for the crank spin balancing machine and alot more good stuff.
Mark also convinced me to remove the balance shafts . . . we'll see what happens. The funny thing is, we're finding out that every motor is different. Car 1's motor has different oil rings than another motor I gave him. Well after all, we bought 7 cars from 7 different Formula Mirage race teams and it looks like there was cheating going on. Another thing we found out is the pistons are not stock (probably Rally Art pistons). Mark said that the original 4G6 pistons are cupped. These pistons are dome shape and fly cut giving the compression ratio about 10.5~11.0 : 1.
The short block won't be done until I find mark some oil rings. Once the block is completed, I can put the car back together again.
I got the short block back from Snyder's.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/fm3.JPG
I deburred the ports on the heads along with lapping the valves with new seals. It took me a whole day to put the engine together. Check out the new freeze plugs.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/fm4.JPG
Valve cover gets the same paint job as the brake ducts and body, which is Jaguar racing green metalic with clearcoat.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/fm5.JPG
Car #1 is whole again and ready for Leilani's presentation this Saturday. I hope I have enough time tomorrow to get the plumbing and electronics hooked up and start the car.
http://www.hawaiitalks.net/photopost/data/570/medium/fm6.JPG
Oh, and there's no counter-balance shafts.
kilikopela
11-17-2008, 12:22 PM
Wow...looks awesome Tom! BTW, we ran into Miki at her new workplace. We still need to do a BBQ at your house. :D
corytomo
11-20-2008, 11:14 AM
Cool, let me know how it feels without the balance shafts. Should be ok I think.
Wow...looks awesome Tom! BTW, we ran into Miki at her new workplace. We still need to do a BBQ at your house. :D
Thanks Chris! The next 2 cars should take less time to rebuild since I've done alot of the parts preparation for all three.
Yeah, Miki told me you guys stopped by. That store is right up her alley "Simply Organized". It's owned by the same people that own City Mill.
BBQ sounds like a plan to me!
Cool, let me know how it feels without the balance shafts. Should be ok I think.
Well, I did run into a major problem after starting the car. The engine ran like crap. It sounded like the cam shafts were a tooth off. SOooo, I had to take apart the car again and you know what? I'm getting better at it. . .it takes me much less time now. I also had the injectors cleaned and flowed thanks to Paul and Sy at AutoPro. Got the car back together and restarted it. It runs really good now. It doesn't seem to have any vibration, but I won't know for sure until I test drive it.
I also did a compression test and the compression in all four cylinders range from 175 lbs. to 190 lbs. Keep in mind that the engine is not broken in yet.
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